Adventures in Horticulture - The Chris Collins Website


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Baby Leaf , Beet Leaf , Beetroot , Borecole , Bean (Broad) , Bean (Climbing French) , Bean (Dwarf French) , Bean (Runner) , Broccoli ,Brussels Sprouts

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Cucumber

Endive , Florence Fennel , Hot Peppers , Kohl Rabi

Leeks , Lettuce

Marrow , Melon

Onion , Oriental

Parsnip , Pea , Pumpkin ,

Radicchio , Radish , Rhubarb , Rocket

Spinach , Sprouting Seeds , Squash , Swede , Sweet Pepper , Sweet Corn

Tomato , Turnip


GROWING  INSTRUCTIONS  AND TIPS  

TOMATOES

SOWING TIMES & CONDITIONS

 Starting  Tomatoes  off  early  in  the  season  and  in  a  controlled environment  will  bode well  for  the  season.  Sown in  a  seed  tray  and  placed in a  propagator  or  ,  if  your  luck  enough , a  glasshouse.  A   good reputable seed  compost should  be your  medium  and  make sure there is  plenty  of light  this  helps  prevent  etilation of the seedlings  and leggy seedlings. Beware bright direct  scorching sunshine.

Sow your Tomato  seed late  January / February in a  gentle heat of 16  degrees  or  there about.  Toms  can also  be kicked off in  Polytunnels .

PRICKING  OUT & POTTING  ON

When  your seedlings have  emerged and  are  at the Cotyledon  stage ( the  first  two  leaves ) it’s  time to  give  them  some  more  room. Handle  the  seedling by  the  leaves only  and using a  dibber  gently transfer  your seedling  into a  9cm  pot  containing  a  good  potting compost (loam based John Innes  is  a  good  example).  The   seedling  can be  planted  right up to its  neck as  its  young stem  will  produce extra  root.  Water  and  place  your newly  potted seedling  in a protected environment – propagator / glasshouse  or  kitchen window (beware  scorching  from  direct sunlight!) .

HARDENING OFF &  PLANTING OUT

Once  the frosty night begin  to  subside  and the spring gets going it’s  time to  ‘Harden  off’  your Toms.  This  means  slowly  acclimatising  your plants ready for outside life. A  cold  frame  would  be ideal  ,  which  can  be opened during the day and closed for protection against late frost during the night. 

Toms growing in  greenhouses or Polytunnels should  be well  ventilated .  Once all  danger  of frost has passed  plant out your Tomatoes. Could  be in  a border  , pot even hanging basket.  If  your  growing your Toms  under a  protected  structure pot them  on  into  larger  pots  once the smaller plants have become pot bound. 

When  planting  out  your  pick a  nice  sunny  spot  away  from strong  winds.   

WATERING & FEEDING

Tomatoes  are   Mediterranean plants  so  be  careful  not  to  over  water  ,  the soil  should  be kept  slightly  damp  and notsoaking wet. Watering can  be  increased  when  fruiting is  becoming  profuse.  Your  Toms  will  love a  liquid feed  and  anything  containing Seaweed  extract  is  welcome . This  contains all  the  trace elements  that  these plants  require  ,  particularly  important is  Iron  and  Magnesium  , nutrients that    sometimes   Tomatoes   suffer  from  a  lack  of  (yellowing of leaves).  Liquid feed should  be applied early  or late in  the date ,  preferably  when the  weather  is  still and clear. This  means the  Stomata  ( breathing pores on  the leaves) will  be open  and receptive to  liquid.  Dilute and  apply the liquid fertiliser in a  fine water  sprayer .If there  are concerns about nutrient in the soil  supplement it with  slow  release fertiliser  granules . Or for  those of you  who  are  strictly organic a top  dress  on the soil  surface of an  organic  fertiliser.     

 TIPS FOR TOMATOES

 Being from  the Med  one  way to  cause problems with  your plants  without  releasing it  , is to water straight  from  the tap .  Tepid water ,  water  that has  been  allowed to  stand for  a few days is much  more comfortable  for  Toms providing no sudden cold shock  to  the  roots.  Also  do not  forget  to  support your Tomatoes . They are  not  woody  plants so  Bamboo  canes  and some twine will  go  a  long  way to  protecting your  plants  from  collapse  ,  especially  under  the weight of  a heavy  fruit  crop.  If  you  are growing  you  Toms on a  truss  method   support from  above will  help.

Pinching your Toms  for  will also  produce better plants.  Pinch  pout the tips of the main  stem and laterals as  the plants  grows  ,  this  is  should  be done  when  the plants  are young  ,  this  will  aid heavy fruiting later  .  Also  pinch  out  leaves that are over  lapping  your  fruit as  we need the sunshine to get  those Toms  turning  red.

To  make  sure your  plants  are well  fed and able to  provide  you  with lots of  produce try mulching  the top  of your  soil with  cut Cumphery leaves.

LOOKING OUT FOR PROBLEMS

 Blight  is  the disease that can  have  devastating  effects , turning shoots  and  stems black. It thrives on  humid  still  conditions ,  so  be careful  with  your watering and  ventilation. Aphids may  fancy  a  meal  at  the expense of  your  Tomato  plants , a touch  of  soapy  water in a  water sprayer will  check  them . 

Whitefly  in  a glasshouse  situation  is  a  common problem ,  use  sticky glue cards or a  biological  control  like the  parasitic wasp  Encarsia  formosa   . There are  other  moulds  and  fungus that can  take a  fancy  to  the Tomato ,  both its foliage and fruit. Attention to  watering  will  play  its part in containment  but if  things  are really  bad a  copper based fungicide may  be the only answer ,  it should  be  applied  as  a preventative spray . It  is  understood   that  chemicals  are  not for everybody .  If plants are infected ,  removed  diseased  material  and  burn .

 HARVESTING

 Pick  the  fruits when  they are ripened  . Cut  the  fruit  stalk leaving the calyx attached  to  the fruit. Pull up plants  by  the roots  at the end  of  the  season  and hang them  in a dry area , like  a garage , this will  help  any  remaining  fruits on the  plant  to  ripen.